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The World! 9-26-11 This time it is Jim and Vangie Regan doing the traveling.
TOURING THE BALTIC COUNTRIES: Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Finland, Estonia, Germany and Norway
Sidebar 1: It took three attempts to schedule a cruise to the Baltic Countries. The first attempt was cancelled due to 9-11. The second attempt was foiled when my first wife, June, died. The third time was the charm….
Planning Ahead. I have found that preparation for any extensive trip requires some tricky advance planning. Using your mileage-plus account for air travel, for example, is an exercise in precise timing. Procuring a “free” first-class seat requires knowing in advance your dates of travel and itinerary. The airlines set-aside a limited number of seats for the frequent traveler awards program, so it’s first come, first served. Typically, the airlines will not issue reservations using traveler awards prior to 360 days from your day of departure. So, if you do not make a reservation on the 360th day, then “good luck.” Once your air travel reservations are made, then the fun begins. I have found that the best resources for planning a trip are: 1) friends who have been there done that, 2) country travel services, and 3) Google. Once I know where I want to go, then I gather as much information about sites of interest, hotels, guide services, etc. Following, is an account of Vangie’s and Jim’s recent three+ week trip to the Baltic area and to one of my favorite places on this planet, Ireland.
Up, Up and Away Flying United, we departed San Diego @ 11:30 AM via Denver to Chicago. The last leg of the flight was with SAS over Greenland @ 35,000 ft. with a ground speed of 590 MPH. We arrived in Copenhagen @ 1:00 PM. Our game plan was to spend three days in Copenhagen at the waterfront Marriott Hotel prior to boarding the Emerald Princess for our ten day cruise of the Baltic.
Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen
Tivoli Gardens
Little Mermaid
Who could forget Danny Kaye in the 1952 film Hans Christian Anderson singing : Wonderful, wonderful, Copenhagen
Friendly old girl of a town ‘Neath her tavern light On this very night Let us clink and drink one down To wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen……..
If this ditty doesn’t bring back memories, then visiting this harbor city with its winding narrow 16th century streets, monuments, museums and castles (and don’t forget the statue of the Little Mermaid) will leave you with at least one lasting thought – it’s expensive!! Denmark has refused to join the European currency system (Euros) and has set its own monetary standard, the kroner (DKK). It is considered one of the 10 most expensive cities in the world. The current exchange rate can vary daily, of course. Currently, it is about 1 DKK = $.18 USD, or 100 DKK is equal to $18.06 USD. One afternoon we had lunch in one of the 46 restaurants in Tivoli Gardens. We selected the Groften on the advice of our guide. We had fish soup and open-faced sandwiches consisting of eel and salmon along with a glass of wine. After receiving the bill, I probably squirmed more than the eel when it was caught. – total = $150.00! And what would a meal be without tasting some famous Carlsberg beer (established 1847). Copenhagen has a national health care system. Schooling is free through the university level. Unemployment is around 5% and if you are fired from your job, you will receive subsidized income up to 90% of your base salary. Because of its ideal waterways and ports, over 325 cruise ships visited Copenhagen this summer. Founded in 1912, Maersk has become the world’s largest container shipping company. Ninety five percent of all Danes belong to the Lutheran church. Rich in oil, Copenhagen produces 400,000 barrels of oil per day. I have never seen so many bicycles in one city. Special wide dedicated bike lanes have been constructed to accommodate the 36% of the population who commute by pushing the pedals . Copenhagen is relatively a flat country and the government has imposed a 20 story maximum construction law in order to maintain a horizontal skyline. It considers itself environmentally friendly and cleanliness is an obvious factor throughout the city. During WWII (1940-45), Copenhagen was occupied by the Germans, but the Brits came to the rescue and drove them out. The Danes do not believe in long-term punishment so they have set a maximum prison sentence of 16 years, unless the offense is murder. Enough about the capital and largest city in Denmark - it’s time to board the ship…..
The Emerald Princess – Strike the gangways
Emerald Princess – Tallinn
One of the Princess cruise ships owned by Carnival is the Emerald Princess, It is a monster ship that can accommodate 3,000 passengers and 1,200 crew. First launched in 2006, at a cost of $500 million, it was built in the Italian shipyard, Fincantier Monfalcone. The length of the ship is 951’, or three football fields long, and supports 15 passenger decks! It has all the comforts of home, and then some, but I found the size overwhelming and not suited to my humble taste.
At Sea – 8/31 and 9/1 Under mostly cloudy skies, we headed out to sea to visit the Baltic region of Europe. Bordering the countries of Northern Europe, the Baltic Sea was once the trade route of the Vikings. Our 11 day itinerary called for visiting seven of these countries: Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Germany, Denmark and Norway. Once on board and in our stateroom (#335) on Baja deck level 15th, Vangie surprised me with a birthday bottle of Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top Brut Champagne. Not a bad way to start the cruise and to ward off sea sickness……
Stockholm – “Venice of the North” - (Friday, 9/2) Sweden’s beautiful capital city, Stockholm, is home to more people than any other city in Scandinavia. Founded sometime between 1187 and 1250AD, its current population exceeds 850,000. It is located next to Lake Malaren where it meets the Baltic Sea. Resting on 14 islands and connected by enchanting bridges, it is often referred to as the “Venice of the North.” It is no wonder that thirty percent of the city is made up of waterways. The Vikings inhabited the city over 7 centuries ago. Today, its stone cobbled streets will take you to the popular tourist attraction, the Vasa Museum, home to a restored 17th century warship, the flagship for the Swedish fleet. The Vasa failed and sunk on its maiden voyage. It was discovered and raised between 1956 and 1961.
We took a double-decker “hop on – hop off” bus around town and viewed the various landmarks including, the Drotttningholm Palace – built in the 17th Century as a summer villa – but is now the principal residence of the royal family. Nearby is the City Hall, the home of the civic government and the Concert Hall where the Nobel Prize banquet is held each year. Named after Alfred Nobel, the inventor of dynamite, his profits of destruction now promote science, literature and peace. Another must see is Old Town which is built on a single island. Winding along cobbled streets, we found many picturesque shops, restaurants, art galleries and the old Royal Palace with over 600 rooms! Sweden has not been at war since Napoleonic times, so it has been spared the destruction and devastation that other European cities have suffered. During WWII Sweden helped many refugees, including the Jews, who fled Hitler’s reign of terror. It has fostered international peace through the United Nations, and as stated, is home to the Nobel Peace
Helsinki – Sauna Time - 9/3 The Finns ancestors migrated from Central Asia almost 2,000 years ago and settled along the beautiful shores of the Baltic Sea. Despite having been ruled by others for most of their recorded history, they remain a strong independent group of people, known for their “sisu,” or something akin to tenacity and stubbornness. During the Russian Revolution of 1917, Finland declared its independence and has maintained it ever since. With only a population of 4 million people, the Finns are considered tough fighters having held back the might of the Soviet Union when Stalin’s troops invaded their eastern provinces during the winter war of 1939-40, The Swedes annexed Finland in the 13th century, so many names for people and places remain. Most Finns belong to the Lutheran Church, which came to Scandinavia during the Reformation in 1809. Toward the end of the Napoleonic Wars, Finland passed from Sweden to Russia by treaty. This occupation enabled Russia to have access to the seacoast after being landlocked for years. And under its influence, it embarked upon a vigorous building program, improving its basic infrastructure and ports. Devastated by a massive fire which destroyed most of the Swedish wooden structures in 1808, most of today’s buildings have been built in the last two centuries. Senate square is a very impressive example of this reconstruction. We took a “hop-on, hop-off” bus and toured this beautiful city with its many parks and winding streets, including the Senate square with its Government Palace and University. Nearby, are the Presidential Palace, and the beautiful Lutheran Cathedral of St. Nicholas.
St Nicholas Lutheran Church Just South of town is the Mannerheim Museum, the former president’s home. Further South is the copper domed Temppeliankio Church, carved and blasted from solid granite rock about 30 years ago. Moving South, again, we toured Sibelius Park where a stainless steel statue of Jean Sibelius, the great nationalistic composer, stands.
Helsinki Olympic Stadium
Last, but not least, we drove around the Olympic Stadium, the site of the 1952 Olympics where 69 nations competed for bronze, silver and gold medals. Fittingly, a statue of the great Finnish torch bearing runner, Paavo Nurmi stands at the entrance. Many may remember the USA’s super decathlon athlete, Bob Mathias, who successfully defended his world title.
St. Petersburg, Russia– 9/4,5
“ABC” (another bloody church) Cupid – Hermitage Museum We were in St. Petersburg for two days and there was plenty to see and do, It is the second largest city in Russia with a population around 5 million. It is located in the northwestern sector of Russia on the Neva River at the head of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea. “St Pete” has gone through an evolution of names. It was called Petrograd in 1914, changed to Leningrad in 1924 and then back to St. Petersburg in 1991. Founded by the Tsar Peter the Great in 1703, it remained the capital until 1918 when the body politic moved to Moscow.
St Isaacs Cathedral
Because St. Petersburg is so big and sprawling, we signed up for a special tour of the city. Isaac’s Cathedral was our first stop. Next, we visited the Hermitage Art Museum, home to over 3 million works of art. It is the world’s largest art museum – a one of a kind. This huge structure houses masterpieces by Renoir, Rembrandt, Monet and De Vinci making it a close rival to the Louvre. You could spend a whole day just meandering through the many exhibits. Although he was missing a hand, the statue of Hercules was my favorite piece of art. Many readers may be acquainted with the gemstone, amber. It is highlighted in the chamber-like room in Catherine Palace, naturally referred to as the Amber Room. It was a gift from King Freiderick William of Prussia to Peter the Great. Over 100,000 pieces of replicated 16’ jigsaw like amber panels line the walls. The original panels were stolen by the Nazis during WWII and have never been found, Maybe we should put out an amber alert? I could tell by the look in her eyes that Vangie would like a piece of amber jewelry. So, with one new necklace and two matching earrings (along with a empty pocket book) tucked in her bag, we continued our tour to the Peterhof summer Palace and gardens, featuring the renowned Grand Cascade, a fountain depicting Samson prying open the lion’s jaws. The Peterhof Palace, overlooking the Gulf of Finland, is a UNESCO Heritage Site designed by Peter the Great. Afterwards, our guide took us to a special luncheon in the theatre district where Russian musicians played and danced. Many of you may remember the song, Lara’s theme, from the movie Dr. Zhivago. Several minstrels played it using the well known balalaika, a member of the violin family, along with the Gusli, a 5 string box made out of wood - one of the oldest instruments dating back to Greek times. The dancers performed some nifty high kicks and acrobatics bringing back memories of the olympic gymnastic star, Nadia Comaneci from Romania.For lunch we had borsch and beef stroganoff preceded by none other than a shot of vodka and a glass of Russian champagne to clear the palate. Talk about a power lunch….. My overall impression of St. Petersburg is that despite its wonderful historic landmarks, museums and landscape, it is a drab city and the people are not very friendly. I know the “cold war” is over, but I can’t help but think a “cold peace” still exists, at least for now.
Tallinn, Estonia (9/6) Not knowing much about Tallinn, or where the hell it is located, I looked it up on the map. It is situated on the Gulf of Finland’s southern coast and is the capital of Estonia. What a surprise place…The city is comprised of centuries-old history and modern technology (note: the internet communication system, Skype, was born here).
Gothic Town Hall – 1371
The historic (medieval) Old Town (all these countries seem to have an Old Town) is capped with red tiled roofs and remains pretty much untouched by the surrounding cultures – the Scandinavian people to the west and the Slavic tribes to the east. Dating back to 1346 A.D., Tallinn became a hub of trade and was ruled by GermanTeutonic Knights who controlled the entire eastern shore of the Baltic. Today, that is why Tallinn’s medieval core looks like a town of German origin.
At Sea (9/7 Even though we spent the day and night at sea on the way to Warnemunde, there are plenty of things to do aboard ship. The Emerald Princess sports over 11 restaurants, a dozen bars, gambling casino, 4 swimming pools, a beauty salon, jogging track, fitness center, putting golf course and tennis and basketball courts, art gallery, retail shops, internet room, outdoor and indoor theatres and various lectures and games (such as bridge). I found the internet expensive and slow. Computer signals must bounce off of satellites at 22,000’ and I swear some of my messages went into orbit and never returned. The cost to purchase 80 minutes of time was $75! So, if you didn’t hear from us, you now know why….. Dining was not always a pleasant experience. We had signed up for an early seating at unassigned tables. We, and/or the other table mates, were not always compatible. Most of them would bitch about something they found wrong with the cruise, like the food or standing in line. This just reinforced my notion that the ship was too damn big. Vangie and I occasionally sought the solitude of a private table when we wanted a little peace and quiet. The Gatsby Casino was crappy (pun intended). Except for playing blackjack, we managed to pay our dues at the slots, and then some….
Warnemunde, Germany and a storm to remember (9/8) Our next stop was supposed to be the former fishing village, Warnemunde. It is now a seaside resort and the gateway to Berlin. All of the popular land tours were sold out. Many folks were planning on taking the train to Berlin for an all-day excursion to see such sites as checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall, Brandenburg Gate, or to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp which now serves as a memorial. It was not to be…..we got caught in the tail-end of the big storms and the winds were blowing about 60 MPH. Just before entering the harbor, the captain announced that weather conditions were too hazardous to continue into port, so the ship set course for our next stop, Aarhus. So much for seeing Berlin…..fortunately, we both had been there before, so it was back to the casino.
Aarhus, Denmark (9/9) Aarhus was founded in the 8th century by the Vikings. It is Denmark’s largest port city and located at the east-coast midpoint of the Jutland Peninsula. The Vikings had settlements around Aarhus from at least the 7th or 8th centuries. Its coastal position was ideal for trading. It was “hop on, hop off bus time, once again, so we started the tour by viewing Our Lady’s Church which was built sometime between the 13th and 15th centuries as part of the house of Dominican friars. During restoration work in the ‘50s they found remnants of an older Romanesque structure below the crypt dating from 1060. It is the oldest known vaulted building in Scandinavia. The present cathedral (12th century) is both the longest and tallest church in the country. Nearby, we visited the Viking Museum where artifacts were discovered in 1964. No matter what one thinks about the Vikings, they were once fierce tough dudes…To the North is the best preserved Viking fort located at Fyrkat, built around 980 by Herald Bluetooth, the king of Denmark and Norway. The fort is a typical Viking pattern with a heavy circular wall with 4 gates linked by two internal perpendicular streets. In each quadrant was a wooden longhouse which housed about 50 people. King Bluetooth was responsible for helping to convert his people to Christianity. Like so many other countries, Aarhus has a well preserved Old Town, named “Den Gamie,” with an open air museum of over 70 actual half-timbered houses. Members were brought there from other parts of Denmark and reconstructed. We did not visit all of the prominent landmarks like the lush botanical gardens or the Marselisborg palace, the summer retreat of the Danish royal family. This imposing residence is located within a serene deer park, where animals roam freely. Moving right along, many tourists visit the Moesgard Prehistoric Museum where local history has been traced from the Stone Age to the Viking era. Of special interest, there is a fascinating exhibit of the Grauballe Man, a 2000 year old well preserved body recently discovered in a peat bog. I think I need to include more peat in my diet, as well as in the yard….
Oslo, Norway (9/10) And the winner is – Oslo! What a beautiful place with its fjords and surrounding landscape. Because of the next leg on our journey (explained later), we disembarked from the Emerald Princess and hired a guide to take us around the city and then to the airport for a quick flight back to Copenhagen. Here are some notes from our guide: From the time of its founding around 1050 A.D., Oslo, Scandinavia’s oldest capital, has thrived on supplying provisions to ships and trading timber. We drove by the impressive Akershus Castle (circa 1300) which overlooks the city.
Akershus Castle It was built like a fortress to provide added protection to the thriving town. Unfortunately, most of the old city was destroyed by fire in 1624. King Christian IV of Denmark spared no expense to rebuild Oslo, but this time, on the right bank of the Aker River. Norway was drawn into WWII in early 1940 when it was captured by the German forces. Even though the Nazi occupation lasted five years, the people of Oslo showed continuing resistance up and until their final liberation. Akershus has a touching memorial and museum dedicated to the country’s heroes. Today, Oslo supports a population of only one-half million but its geography is extensive. I was impressed with its transit systems that serve all of the countryside. The roads are well maintained and punctuated with rail and car tunnels which have been bored through miles of sheer rock. Commuting throughout the country is easy (exception- the airport is 50 miles of freeway from the downtown area). The Radhus, or Town Hall is a striking red brick building with twin towers. You may remember the tragic mass destruction and shootings this past July when a right-wing extremist, Anders Behring Breivik, car bombed the downtown government quarters then proceeded to the island of Utoya and gunned down youths attending a summer camp. Because of this tragedy, we were unable to see some of the city area affected by this destruction. It is still closed off to traffic. We drove by the Royal Palace, The National Gallery, the Nobel Peace Center and Vigeland Sculpture Park, where some 200 statues have been created in granite, wrought iron and bronze. Like some of her other sister cities, Oslo has a wonderful Viking Ships Museum with displays of oaken long ships from the 9th century. The largest of these vessels required 30 rowers! The ships were discovered in the blue clay along the Oslofjord in the 19th century. Evidently, Some of these ships were used as tombs for noblemen. Several other museums house these and other unique ships. The Fram Museum is home to the Fram, especially built to withstand the crushing forces of the polar icecap. It took crews to both the North (1892) and the South Pole (1911). And, most of you will remember the Kon-Tiki. At this museum you can see the raft of balsa logs that Thor Heyerdahl sailed in 1947 to Polynesia. His purpose, of course, was to demonstrate how people migrated throughout the world. Some may remember that the winter Olympics was held in Lillehammer in 1994. This grand event reminds me of the cordial nature demonstrated by the Norwegian people. If I had time to revisit one country, I would choose Norway. Only this time I would head North of Oslo to its great outdoors.
Back to Copenhagen (9/10) We departed Oslo and flew SAS to Copenhagen for an overnight at the Crowne Plaza Hotel. The next morning we hopped on another SAS flight beginning the next leg of our journey – to The Emerald Isle, Ireland.
Sidebar # 2 Our trip to the Baltic aboard the Emerald Princess was a grand experience. We probably will never go back to any of these countries, but at least the third time was the charm….
JR (9/11) BARGING ON THE RIVER SHANNON - IRELAND
After visiting the Baltic countries, we headed westward and revisited the land of my forefathers, and my favorite country, Ireland. I had visited the land of green on two previous occasions. This time, we answered the call of the Shannon River with a seven days/six nights barge cruise aboard the Shannon Princess. Running over 240 miles in length and through 11 counties, the docile Shannon physically divides the country into east and west. The river is formed by a profusion of lakes and streams rising in the Cuilcag Mountains in northwestern County Cavan and meanders in a southerly direction through some of the most beautiful scenery to the Atlantic Ocean near Limerick City.
Shannon River
THE SHANNON PRINCESS – KILLALOE
“ALL ABOARD”
The Shannon Princess is a ten passenger luxury hotel barge. It is the only one cruising the waterways of Ireland. Because of its popularity, reservations must be made a year in advance. After flying from Copenhagen and landing in Dublin, we were transported to the Aberdeen Lodge in Ballsbridge, an upper scale suburb just west of Dublin. The barge’s captain, Rouri (pronounced Rory) met us, along with seven other guests, at the lodge and drove us to the Princess where it was moored at Killaloe, about 1 ¾ hours south-east of Dublin. The first order of business was a welcome by the captain and the crew along with several glasses of the bubbly. Next, we were escorted to our pre-assigned suite. There are 5 suites with choices of twin or double beds. All of the suites and the dining room/bar have panoramic views of the river and surrounding countryside. The barge has a full length roof-top sun deck with chairs and lounges. We found the en-suite facilities very clean, well organized and with plenty of storage space. Bottled water, truffles, hair dryer and clean towels (twice a day) added to our daily comfort. Our dining experience was first class. Each morning before breakfast juice, coffee and tea were available; A full-course breakfast, including fresh baked bread and pastries, was served between 7:00 and 8:00 AM. A fully stocked bar was open 24/7. Each night the chef, Olivia, (Capt. Rouri’s wife) prepared signature dishes such as wild salmon, roast of spring lamb and variations of shellfish stew with fresh herbs, complimented with a wide selection of cheeses and French and other quality wines and followed by specialty desserts, port and/or cognac. I didn’t want to disappoint my fellow travelers, so I tried everything…..
Sunday (Day 1), Killaloe We had a surprise beginning when the captain announced that the tail-end of the big storms that had started in Africa and hammered the U.S. had reached Ireland. Because high winds were expected that night, he decided to remain docked at Killaloe rather than shoving off on our cruise. That night we “rocked around the clock” as 60 mph winds ripped across the country. The next morning brought calmer weather and we left Killaoe. and began our unhurried journey through locks, bridges, forest parks and rolling farmlands resting at the foot of ancient mountains. Along the way, Rouri took us in his Mercedes van to intriguing historical sites, charming villages and towns, through gentle hills and countrysides and to the remains of castles, abbeys and churches where legends of a lost age still linger. The picturesque town of Killaloe is located in County Clare on the Shannon’s West Bank. It was named after a monastery founded by St. Lua in the 6th century, Because of the pending storm, we stayed on board and organized our belongings and acquainted ourselves with the other guests (a couple and their widowed friend from the U.K., a couple from Chicago, and a couple from Montreal).
KILLALOE
Monday – Killaloe to Mountshannon We began our cruise by moving north into Lough Derg passing Holy Island, Deer Rock and Derry Castle docking at Mountshannon. This quaint little village is known for its tidiness.
Tuesday – Mountshannon to Terryglass. After a leisurely cruise north through a wide variety of lake and verdant shoreline scenery, we passed the island of Illamore and docked at the quaint little village of Terryglass.
All along the river we saw farmlands that roll down to the water. Ducks, swans, cattle and sheep were never out of sight.
Wildlife on the River Shannon
The tiny picturesque village of Terryglass is just a few hundred yards from the harbor. It has won the highly coveted national prize of Irelands Tidiest Town. We had a scrumptious lunch of fish and chips at the Derg Inn in the village.
Two notable people own property in Terryglass, the John Paul Getty family Trust and the actor, Sean Penn. After lunch, the captain took us to a haunted (?) run down castle where the owner gave us a run down on some of the spooky tales associated with his digs. He played a version of the Irish flute while his lovely daughter played the harp. Afterwards, she put on her dancing shoes and gave us a rendition of the Irish jig. I learned that there is a nearby hillside and valley called the “Valley of the O’Regans.” No wonder I felt right at home…. Foynes Flying Boat Museum: Captain Rouri drove us to our next point of interest in Foynes, a small village and major port in County Limerick located on the southern bank of the Shannon Estuary. Foynes became a famous land/water mark when it became the major European airport to accommodate the “flying boats” crossing the Atlantic from New York. The first flight took place in 1937 when a Pan Am Sikorsky S-42 called the “Yankee Clipper” completed the “across the pond” flight.
Come Fly With Us
Pan Am employed Charles Lindbergh as a consultant to discover and survey` water landing sites in Europe and the Pacific. As a result of his survey, Lindbergh declared that Foynes was the best water landing area in Europe. It soon became the centre of the aviation world and opened new routes to other cities throughout Europe and the mid-east. An interesting story tangential to Foynes place in aviation history, goes something like this. One night a scheduled flight left Foynes for Newfoundland but it encountered bad weather. The pilot decided to return to Foynes. Upon landing the crew and passengers were taken to a well known restaurant and coffee shop in the terminal operated by Brendan O’Regan. His chef, Joe Sheridan, was asked to prepare something warm for the passengers. This request prompted Joe to add some good Irish whiskey to the coffee. As the story goes, one of the passengers approached Joe and complimented him for the wonderful coffee. He asked Joe if it was Brazilian coffee. Smilingly, Joe responded “no, that was Irish Coffee.” So, now you know the rest of the story….. The original terminal building was purchased and converted to the Foynes Flying Boat Museum in 1989. The actress Maureen O’Hara officially opened the terminal in 1939 and remains a patron to the museum. Its main attraction is a full-scale replica of the Boeing 314 “Yankee Clipper.” Visitors can travel back in time when they board the Clipper and tour this flying boat. In addition, the museum has a comprehensive range of exhibits pertaining to this era of aviation history
“YANKEE CLIPPER” COCKPIT
PASSENGER SEATS – ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME
After our visit to the Flying Museum we returned to the Shannon Princess for a brief break. On The Farm: Capt. Rouri had arranged for us to visit a “typical” Irish family in nearby Ballycorban late that afternoon, so we “hit the road”, once again. Our host family was Mike and Noreen Kennedy and their three children. They live on a hillside farm where they literally live off of the land. Pigs, goats, sheep, turkeys, chickens, ducks and a horse round out their stable of animals. They have an extensive garden and greenhouse where they grow their own vegetables and fruits. The three kids (16, 12 and 3) are all home-schooled. It didn’t take me long to figure out that they are being well-educated, not only in basic school subjects, but in the development of good social skills, also.
The Original House, Now A Barn The Kennedys hosted tea and coffee and some homemade cake. When asked, I elected to have my first taste of potcheen, an Irish home made alcoholic drink that set my gustatory taste buds on fire.
Wednesday – Terryglass to Galway to Banagher Today’s tour took us to Portumna Castle and Gardens and then on to the seaside city of Galway. Our first stop was Portumna, a commanding semi-fortified Castle built in the early 1600’s by Richard Burke, the 4th Earl of Clanricarde. It remained the main seat of the Burke family for over 200 years until it was gutted by fire in 1826. Our guide walked us through the exhibits on the main floor and related the history of the castle and the surrounding area. In front of the structure are formal and geometrically laid out gardens.
PORTUMNA CASTLE
We said goodbye to Portumna and headed to Galway for a special lunch at The Quay’s Carvery and Restaurant on Shop Street. I ordered oysters for a starter followed by an assorted fish salad. After lunch we roamed the busy Shop Street and enjoyed peeking in shops and people watching. We returned to the Shannon Princess and another gourmet dinner.
SHOP STREET – GALWAY
Thursday – Banagher to Athlone As we journeyed north towards, Athlone, we stopped and took a short walk to the ruins of Clonmacnoise monastery built in the 6th century. The remains of towers, churches, Celtic crosses and gravesites dot the landscape. The monastery was ideally located on the major land-route that ran east and west. This early Christian settlement was once a major centre for religion, learning, craftsmanship and trade. It is believed that the decline of Clonmacnoise occurred when Athlone became the main locus for trade. The Cross of Scriptures, in my opinion, was the most interesting artifact. Standing about 12’ and carved out of sandstone, it has panels that show the crucifixion, the Last Judgment Day and Christ’s tomb. Several of the old structures still have active congregations. Thousands of people attended the site when Pope John Paul II visited it in 1979.
Docked At Clonmacnoise
CLONMACNOISE
Celtic Cross
Cross of Scriptures
Friday – Athlone to Quigley’s Marina We arrived in Athlone in the early afternoon and I was feeling mighty fine. Athlone is a fairly large city. It even has a Raddisson Hotel. We wandered around the city browsing in the shops. Luck was on my side as Vangie couldn’t find anything she liked. Back on board and after another gourmet meal we all retired for the evening. About midnight I got violently sick and tossed up my day’s rations every hour until 5:00 PM the next day. And I always thought oysters were an aphrodisiac! Whew!! We left Athlone, thanks to the help of 3 doctors, a shot and a few prescriptions, and headed for our last stop at Quigley’s Marina. For awhile I thought I had eaten my “last supper,” but with the help of some Irish beverages, I recovered swiftly in time for our last dinner aboard the Princess.
ATHLONE
Saturday – Quigley’s to Dublin After breakfast, it was time to say “goodbye” to the other guests, crew, Captain Rouri and suite #5.
OUR SUITE #5 ABOARD THE SHANNON PRINCESS
Back To Aberdeen Lodge - Ballsbridge We had made previous arrangements to spend three extra days touring several areas of interest in and around Dublin, namely Newgrange in the Boyne Valley and the National Stud Farm and Japanese Gardens. So, it was it was time to say “adios” to the barge and “hello” Aberdeen Lodge. While planning our trip to Ireland I used google to find a reputable Irish guide to take us to the places we wanted to see. I found a certified guide, Kieran Cathcart, who conducts private tours. His credentials looked creditable and he came well recommended by some of his clients. Kiernan picked us up in his Mercedes van Sunday morning during a “soft” rain and we headed south to Tully, Kildare to visit the Irish National Stud Farm and Horse Museum, Japanise Gardens and Saint Fischra’s Garden. On the way to the Farm, We passed Curragh, the biggest race course (over 5,000 acres) in Ireland. The Farm was purchased by a wealthy Scottish brewer, Colonel William Hall-Walker in 1900. He started to breed thoroughbred horses and soon experienced remarkable success. It operated as the British National Stud Company until 1943. It was then turned over to the Irish Government in 1945 and the National Stud Company was formed to promote the interests of the Irish bloodstock industry, which it continues to do today.
Japanese Gardens: These gardens were created between 1906-10 by a Japanese craftsman, Tassaa Eida. The theme of the entire walking tour, “The Life of Man,” starts at the Cave of Birth, a mound of rock symbolizing life’s beginning.
Next, we followed the path of childhood to a dark tunnel called the Tunnel of Ignorance. As we emerged from the tunnel we climbed the steep steps to the Hill of Learning. A challenging and rugged path then descends (simulating the adolescent years) to the Parting of the Ways. Here there are three paths to follow – (to the right) a smooth path of carefree life, or (to the left) a narrow path of bachelorhood, or to stepping stones of exploration across the water which leads to a wedded life. It is believed that if you took the latter path, then you will arrive at the island of Joy and Wonder. Here man meets a future wife and joins her at the Engagement Bridge. The bridge symbolizes the transition from prenuptial life to married life and precedes the crossing of the Marriage Bridge. Once across the Marriage Bridge we followed the Honeymoon Path, a wider path that allows two to walk abreast, that is, until we encountered a planned obstruction in the middle of the path. It represents a difference of opinion (sound familiar?). Here, we parted company for a while, but soon reunite as we climbed the Hill of Ambition which looks out over the well of wisdom – a place to drink. The path to the well is not easy due to a water blockade. It is meant to symbolize Disappointment. As the story goes, man retraces his steps back up the Hill of Ambition to seek another direction. As man and woman descend the path, it replicates the declining years of life and the way becomes easier, Crossing another bridge to the Tea House and a miniature Japanese village we reached the Well of Wisdom. Next is the crossing of the Bridge of Life to the Garden of Peace and Contentment. As the path winds to an end we (man and woman) take the steps to the Hill of Mourning and the Chair of Old Age which are surrounding by weeping trees. At last, we (man and woman) reach the Gateway to Eternity, thereby completing the “Life of Man.” The entire path is lined with specimen plants, colorful Japanese maple trees, bonsai plants, waterscapes, varieties of bamboos and many other representative plants. The Japanese Garden is a horticultural delight. Once we had traveled along the path of “The Life of Man,” we paused and reflected on the creative mind of Tassaa Eida’s and his grand scheme. Not only had we “walked the walk,” but we felt life’s beauty in storybook form.
The Stud Farm. Adjacent to the visitors’ center and the Japanese Gardens is the Stud Farm. We walked the well manicured extensive grounds on the Farm for several hours starting at the Lower Lake which was designed and built by Eida, the same Japanese landscaper who designed the Japanese Gardens. The Tully river feeds the lake and is a highly mineralized water containing a lot of calcium-carbonate. The carbonated drinking water is considered beneficial to horses because it promotes good bone growth, a major reason why Hall-Walker decided to breed thoroughbreds at Tully. The entire farm is kept in a clean and tidy manner. The phrase “cleanliness is next to Godliness” would certainly apply to every nook and cranny of the farm. Our guide explained the fiscal ramifications of breeding horses. It is an expensive and risky venture, but it can be very lucrative. Evidently, people like rich sheiks and tycoons who dabble in breeding premium horses seek out the services of the Irish Stud Farm. They are willing to pay big bucks for breeding their horses, always looking for the “perfect” animal. We were fortunate to be at the Farm at the right time. The visitors’ Center had alerted us to the arrival of a newborn Falabella colt. It was born just 12 hours before our arrival. This prize little horse belongs to a special breed from Argentina. Falabella horses look like a Shetland pony but are even smaller. They stand only 30” to 34” in height! Supposedly they are descendents of Andalusian and Spanish Barb horses and were brought to Argentina by the Spaniards. We found the newborn colt and his mom in a nearby field. We were amazed at the frisky nature displayed by the little guy as he ran around the grass field, but always staying close to his mother.
On the way back to the van we walked down a beautiful oak tree-lined lane with more verdant fields on both sides We said adios to the Stud Farm and headed back towards the coast of Dublin to the upscale town of Howth. Kiernan drove us near the summit of the highest hill in Howth and we walked the rest of the way to the top. The view was magnificent. The Bay of Dublin was clear even though it had started to rain. Below us, we saw a ferry arriving from its 2 hour daily journey from Wales. Our guide had arranged for us to eat at a local pub called “The Summit.” It was crowded because Ireland’s national amateur football championship was being held in Dublin before 80,000 fans and the rest of the people were glued to the TV, either in their favorite pub, or elsewhere. Kerry was playing Dublin so either green (Kerry) or blue (Dublin) flags, balloons and personal clothing items were on display everywhere. Dublin had not won a national championship since 1995 so the odds to win were on Kerry. The players do not receive any monetary compensation but they play as though their lives depended upon a winning outcome. The matchup was exciting and as good as any Super Bowl game that I have seen. We hastily finished our lunch and went back to Aberdeen Lodge to watch the remaining minutes of the game. Dublin pulled an upset in the last four minutes and we could hear the whole town of Dublin relishing in their Guinness. What a neat day – from seeing the National Stud Farm to seeing the National Amateur Football Championship game – two “studley” events…
BOYNE VALLEY, NEWGRANGE AND TRIM CASTLE NEWGRANGE We saved the best for last. I have wanted to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Newgrange for many years. Dating back to 3200 BC, it is the premier historical site in Ireland. Nestled in the lush Boyne Valley close to the meandering Boyne River, this prominent Neolithic burial tomb stands at the top of a rolling hill. Entrance is through the Visitors Centre only. The Centre provides “all you need to know” about Newgrange prior to being bussed a short distance to the actual site. Upon arrival, visitors can’t miss the massive one acre grass covered mound measuring 250’ across and 40’ high. The entry took us along a 60’ narrow stone lined passageway to a cross-shaped chamber, resulting in 3 chambers. Most of the rock slabs lining the tunnel have been decorated with Neolithic art. Excavated between 1962 and 1975, the tomb was found by Professor M. J. O’Kelly when he discovered the Roof Box, a rectangular opening above the entry which allows the mid-winter sun to penetrate the chamber.
NEWGRANGE – COUNTY MEATH Before we took a tour into the chamber, the guide told us about the entrance stone and the Roof Box. Once inside the tomb chamber the guide demonstrated with artificial light how the winter solstice phenomenon occurs. At a certain time of each year (usually around December 21-25) the rising sun shines (if it’s not cloudy) through the entrance box and illuminates the chamber. Historians speculate that this phenomenon had a religious significance, probably dealing with the return of the solstice replicating the renewal of life each year Scientific carbon techniques were used to determine the age of Newgrange. It was found that the tomb predates the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge.
BOYNE RIVER
MONASTERBOICE Enroute to Trim Castle Kieran took us to the ancient (6th century) site of Monasterboice. Sinmilar to the Clonmacnoise ruins, it has two of the finest examples of carved Celtic stone crosses and a stone tower to be found in Ireland. The towers found on these monastic sites were used for outlooks and protection in times of an invasion. They were not considered very effective shelters since the Vikings or other enemies could smoke the monks out. The best protection was to flee the area. Monasterboice still serves as an active cemetery. One gravesite was created in 2011!
MONASTERBOICE
THE HILL OF SLANE
On the way we stopped and climbed The Hill of Slane for a spectacular view of the Boyne Valley and its lush countryside that attracted Ireland’s first inhabitants many millennia ago.
BOYNE VALLEY FROM THE HILL OF SLANE
ST. PATRICK – The Hill of Slane
TRIM CASTLE Our last stop was to Trim Castle, the largest castle in Ireland. Most tours do not include a trip to the medieval town of Trim. Again, our guide proved his worth when he took us to see the largest Norman Castle in Ireland. Trim castle has been the recipient of a Europa Nostra restoration award and was the site where the movie Braveheart was filmed. The Normans were fierce fighters and the construction of Trim reflects their dominance in controlling their enemies.
TRIM CASTLE – Home to many Brave Hearts
DUBLIN TO SAN DIEGO After three plus weeks abroad, it was time to leave the Emerald Isle and return to another harbor city, San Diego.
A LASTING THOUGHT The passage of time never seems to end For what we see and do, is for us to ponder As others who went before, or will follow in our footsteps Each journey in life is only for one to wander. I grasp at the meaning of things I know not, And always return to one lasting thought. That someone created this mysterious earth Its home for me and I value its worth. I know there is a mountain that I’ve not climbed I’ll leave it to others, for them to find. As my days grow short, I still seek more from life To live, learn and share with my precious wife. As Satchmo once crooned, “What a wonderful world” Jim and Vangie September, 2011
9-28-09 New part of this great story with pics at the bottom of the rest of the articles. Marjean says there will be one more addition later. 9-19-09 Part 4 at the bottom of this series, great story. 9-12-09 Gary these are the first ones. Larry tells me not to send you so many at one time. These are all of Calgary and one of Lethbridge at my great uncle's grave. Thanks, Marjean
Gary these are of Yellowstone and the Snake River as we were leaving Yellowstone I think. Thanks, Marjean See these inserted in the 3rd edition of the story on below.
Hi Gary, I think these are of Glacier. Marjean
8-29-09 From Marjean
A Memory is a Treasure
A memory is a
special treasure
Which endures and
gives us pleasure,
One we cherish
always, for we know..
Recalling certain
times and places,
Always brings our hearts
a warming glow.
Though time may pass,
a memory stays,
Reminding us
of happy days,
And of the people who
have touched our lives..
Of favors done, and
love expressed,
Of those who've stood
above the rest,
A memory is a
treasure that survives.
by Amanda Bradley
The Life and Final Voyage of Margherita Bruce Brownwood
Ethel Margherita Bruce was born in the Northwest Territories of Canada on February 12, 1905, which later that year became the province of Alberta, Canada. Her parents were Evalina Alice Maude Bell who became the wife of Wesley Mathison Bruce (later was given the name of James Wesley Bruce) were married in Manitou, Manitoba on February 1, 1899. They were both born in Ontario; Evalina in 1865 and James in 1869. Both sets of their parents were born in Ireland. (Funny, somehow we always thought our ancestors were Scottish.) Margherita, which was always the name she was known by, started her travels as an egg. Her parents, James and Evalina went on an ocean voyage sometime in 1904, leaving their 2 older daughters, Mildred and Jeanne, with two maiden aunts, traveling to the Holy Land. James was an ordained Methodist minister, so somehow they took this long voyage, taking a train to New York, where they boarded an ocean liner taking them to Jerusalem. Evidently on the ship men were separated from the women and it was only when they were visiting a port somewhere that the couples could be together. On this voyage which was about 3 or 4 months in length they visited Israel, then went on to Italy, where they stopped and toured the ruins of Pompeii, which were close to Santa Margherita, Italy, then on to Scotland, and Ireland before going back to New York. It was finally determined our mother “Margherita” had been conceived on this voyage and that was how they ended up naming her Margherita. So Margherita actually began her life in that distant land. Margherita was born in Macleod in 1905 and the census of 1910 shows the family had moved on to Bethany, OK where our grandfather went to the Nazarene College there in Bethany. It also shows that 2 more children were part of the family then, Marie a 1 ½ year old and a John. We had always known that Margherita had had an infant brother who died very young. That had to have been John. From there her life gets a little bit fuzzy. She had always told us that she and her older sister Jeanne had been sent off to Pasadena with a Nazarene pastor who was traveling through, to live with their older sister Mildred who had married a GI whom she met in OK during World War I. He had since been discharged and they were living in Pasadena. It seems the parents thought it best for the girls to go to school at the Pasadena Academy (Nazarene) than to stay where they were. Of all of our records, we can’t determine if they were still in OK, or Illinois where our grandfather went on to received his PhD from Lincoln Jefferson University in Chicago, IL in June 1920, or had they gone back to Calgary, Alberta. No one is still alive who can answer that and I’ve tried to find Lincoln Jefferson on the internet and it doesn’t look like it’s still in existence. At any rate the girls ended up in Pasadena and enrolled in the Pasadena Academy which was just north of where the Brezee Church of the Nazarene is today. (The Pasadena Academy later moved and is now on Pt. Loma.) From our mother’s graduation certificate we see she graduated from the high school there on May 29, 1923. From the time Margherita (was either 15 or 16 years old) and Jeanne left home (whether from Calgary or OK) they never saw their mother again. The plan was for Evalina to come down to Pasadena to see her (now 4 daughters) don’t know when the younger daughter Marie was sent there, after the school year was finished. Evalina taught school in Calgary and so had to finish out the school year before making the trip south. On the day Margherita graduated high school they learned of the untimely death of their mother Evalina! It had to be devastating to all the family, to learn they would never see their mother again. Here are 2 letters I have that the sisters received from their father regarding what was happening:
Calgary, Alta, Canada May 27th, 1923 (Sunday) 326 – 15 Av. East
Dear Mabel, (Jeanne) It will be a little surprise to you to find that I am writing in Mamma’s place this time. Mamma is not feeling well. She came home from her school on Tuesday evening 22nd and is now in bed. She has been working too hard for her strength and was in fit-condition for anything that came along. I was off work myself for one and one-half days but I am feeling fine again. Mamma is not so fortunate and it will be over a week before she will be around. She has experienced very severe pain all over her body so that the Doctor calls it old fashioned La Grippe. He says she has muscular rheumatism and her right lung is slightly affected. She is next door to the house in which we have our rooms and is under the care of an experienced nurse. Mrs. Bell runs both of these houses one as her home and the other for roomers. Mrs. Bell is a fine Christian lady with lots of sense and experience so Mamma is in good hands. There is a prayer meeting in Bro. Bell’s house and this afternoon just as we got Mamma moved over to the other house a few had gathered for the prayer meeting and we had a good meeting. Sister Grant who is a great woman in prayer and reminds one of old sister Murray of Bethany--Sister Grant said this afternoon that she knew Mamma was going to get well again for she had the Victory for her. The Commencement exercises will all be over before you get this letter. We shall be anxious to learn where and what you will each be doing this summer? Mamma will likely have something more to add to what I have said and which I shall read to her before mailing. With much love from Dad and Mamma to all in Pasadena. J. W. Bruce P.S. I have come from seeing Mamma. She says, “Tell the girls I have definitely decided to go to Pasadena this summer.”
Lethbridge, Alta, Canada June 1st, 1923 (Friday) My Dear daughters, After the service on Thursday afternoon I came down to Lethbridge with Aunt Jennie. Herb could not come to Calgary and he and Jennie thought I ought to take a few days and as Monday is a holiday I am staying here until Monday. I know something of the grief you have been experiencing during these trying days. I believe God has been helping you as He has me. I could not have believed it if I had been told two weeks ago that this blow would fall on me and that I could be gloriously sustained through the trying ordeal of the service at the undertakers. Several of the near relatives sat in a semicircle and my chair close beside Mamma’s Casket banked with flower’s. For ten minutes I stood beside the casket with my eyes closed earnestly praying and pleading the promises of God for grace for the greatest trials, and surely grace came. For about 15 minutes we sang and sang and God blessed my soul so I had to praise him aloud. The following were among the hymns sung—“Rock of Ages”, “When I shall reach the more Excellent Glory”, “O Think of the Land of the Blest”, “Sweet By and By” and several others. At the church my joy was overflowing thus quenching the sting and the grief. Mattie Edwards, Aunt Victoria’s daughter took down the sermon in shorthand and will send you a typewritten copy. The service will long be remembered. The Glory of God was on the Congregation—I seemed to be lifted up into another region and upheld by unseen hands. I forgot to say that the undertaker’s parlor after we had sung the above mentioned hymns, I said let us pray, so we knelt in prayer and with my hand on the casket I asked God to uphold my dear ones in the south with the same grace and Holy Ghost power He was sustaining me and the other friends. The whole thing from beginning to end on Thursday afternoon was more like a coronation than a funeral. Has it yet settled down upon your hearts that Mamma is really in the glory world—seeing sights and hearing music and voices compared to which earth has no equals? What a change from two small rooms in a rooming-house with very modest furniture to a mansion in the skies! How beautiful were the flowers. Our’s was a beautiful wreath of flowers with the name “Family” on it—Mamma’s School sent in a nice wreath, also the Wayne S. School, Teaching Staff’s. Calg. H. School—Local Alliance of Teachers, XI B grade, XII Grade—Mr. & Mrs. Tollingher, Mr. & Mrs. Hendricks and others. Mamma has lots and lots of friends who will miss her. Mamma often visited a Mrs. Glover dying of cancer. When told that Mrs. Bruce had gone on to the spirit world she shed many tears. I am leaning on the Everlasting Arms and God is wondrously keeping me. How I am praying for my children that God will surely uphold and keep them! You must truly just let Him control your spirits and hearts. This is our only refuge through these trying weeks. He can do it and He is doing it. Mildred and Will—you must give up to God. Just about two weeks before mamma left this earth she was at a prayer circle next door on a Sunday afternoon. God wonderfully blessed Mamma in her testimony—then a burden came on her for Mildred and Will and she asked the prayers of the people—then Mamma broke down and had to sit in a chair and she sobbed and sobbed as if her heart would break. How she loved her children and Will just like the girls. (Will was the soldier Mildred married in 1920.) For the past year Mamma has been ripening for the Heavenly Home. Let us be brave and do just as we believe would best please her if She were with us—
God bless you more and more, Papa
Mrs. Clayton frequently asks for Mildred Aunt Jennie says.
To be continued….. THE LIFE AND FINAL VOYAGE OF MARGHERITA
Margherita always had the yearning to become a missionary and take the word to India. Somewhere during the next couple years after graduating high school in 1923, her health broke and thus that dream never materialized. I don’t know exactly when but she met John Brownwood and they married on December 31, 1927. It most likely was through the church as I believe that is the church they both went to at the time.
Sometime in the early 1930’s Margherita had gone to night school to study to become a U.S. citizen. I recall going to her swearing in—I remember it as being at the Pasadena Civic Auditorium, and Vangie remembers it at being at John Muir Jr. College. No one is still around who can tell us about that now.
The John Brownwood’s went on to have four children, Bruce, Raymond, Evangeline (Vangie) and Marjean. John was an auto mechanic and times were tough to raise 4 children, but fortunately none of us ever went hungry and our father always had a job. The family lived in Pasadena until 1943 when they purchased a small farm (1 acre) in Arcadia. At that time there were some 3000 laying hens, lots of rabbits, a cow was purchased and we had as many as 4 horses at one time. I recall in the beginning there were also about 17 geese (mean things) and dad brought in a lot of pigeons. He they planted a huge victory garden in the back half so in essence we always had lots of food right out of our yard. We also always had a dog or two and several cats. It was Vangie’s and my job to clean and candle the eggs so our father could take them to market. (I blame that job to this day on my having bronchitis so much. I’m sure it was all the chicken dung we inhaled in the process down in the cellar.)
All four of us children graduated from MAD. I was the 4th and I vividly recall an English teacher saying to me the first day of class, “not another Brownwood!” I think it was Miss Coblentz. Fortunately I made it through her class.
Korea started and Bruce was called into active duty with the 40th Division and sent to Korea. Ray had joined the Air Force and went off to training then onto Shimeya in the Aleutians to spend several months there. Our mother’s health had been deteriorating and shortly after I graduated in June 1951 she had lost lots of weight, couldn’t digest food so well and was basically really sick. Her older sister who lived in Seattle had had breast cancer surgery a few years earlier and all my mother wanted to do was to go to Seattle. So she flew up there. They took one look at her and took her immediately to see her sister’s surgeon. He did a few tests and admitted her to the hospital to build her blood and resistance up in order to do exploratory surgery. He had said at the time he first saw her she never would have made it through surgery. Finally they did the surgery which lasted about 10 hours. They found cancer of the colon. They removed lots of the colon and various other places it looked as though it had spread to, and thought they had gotten it all. Unfortunately that was not the case. She came home for Thanksgiving of 1951 and was doing pretty well until about May of ’52 when signs appeared that perhaps the cancer had returned. She returned to Seattle for another surgery. They couldn’t do anything this time so just sewed her up and said go back to your family. Bruce and Ray had both returned from their service duties. Marjean and Larry were married in November 1952. This found Margherita back in St. Luke’s Hospital with yet one more surgery to correct a blockage. It was either that or imminent death. The family was asked and we all said do it! It was probably selfish on our part but we did want her to be around as long as possible. She did accomplish several things in her last months which all of us were grateful for. She put together scrapbooks for each of the children which we all cherish to this day. Along about early March Marjean discovered she was pregnant. I made a call to my parents, talked to my dad and told him, “dad you’re going to be a grandfather,” he said to Margherita, “we’re going to be grandparents,” she said “no John, you’re going to become a grandfather.” That was a really hard thing for me to hear and I almost wished I hadn’t told them. Even though we had known for almost a year that her cancer was terminal we all kept believing there’d be some kind of miracle and she’d get over it. Finally on Sunday, March 29, 1953, with all of us present her last breath left her. She had just had her 48th birthday on February 12. Much too young to leave us. Just as she was so heart broken at her own mother’s sudden and unexpected death, we were all heart broken at having lost her so young. Her funeral was held in Pasadena at Lamb’s Funeral Home on April 2 and she was interred in Mountain View Mausoleum in Altadena.
Years passed. Each of us children went on to live our own lives and raise our families. Bruce married late in 1953 and he and his wife Charlene bore 7 children and they in turn have lots of children. Ray married in 1956 and he and his late wife Joyce have 3 sons and they in turn have several children. Vangie married in 1953 and had 2 children by her first husband, she married Dick Burt in 1969 and they had Mary. Vangie has 3 grandchildren. After Dick’s death in 2001 she married Jim Regan. (So far there have been no children born of that marriage. Although I’m sure they’re trying!)
For some reason I could never find it in me to visit the mausoleum where Margherita was. Then one weekend in 1977 when we had brought our youngest daughter down to UCLA I decided it was time for that visit. This was now 24 years later. It was one of the most emotional experiences of my life and I sobbed and sobbed. I realized I’d never really grieved for my mother. I couldn’t stand the thought of her being cooped up in that little niche. When I returned home that Sunday, I immediately got on the phone to my sister, brothers and dad and told them that I wanted to get mom out of there. They all agreed. So I started the paper work. When it came time to signing, for some reason Bruce rescinded and said he didn’t want to. So that sort of ended that. I didn’t want to start a family feud. So years rolled by and I had finally resigned myself to the fact that that’s the way it would be.
In the summer of 2008 Larry and I had decided instead of cruising we’d take a driving trip and see some parts of the U.S. we hadn’t visited and go on to Canada. My main goal was to find the grave site of my deceased grandmother, Evalina Bruce, who had passed away in 1923. Because of letters I had been given by my Aunt Jeanne, the sister just older than Margherita, I gleaned that my grandmother had to be buried in Calgary. We contacted Ian and Harriet (Heisler) Campbell who have a summer home in Utah and said we’d like to visit them on our way to Calgary.
They said that would be fine and that if it would be o.k. that they’d like to go to Calgary with us. We said great. So we left here sometime in late August. I called Ian and asked him if he’d google cemeteries in Calgary for me. So by the time we got there he had a list of 5 cemeteries there. We spent 2 nights there at Bear Lake with them then took off on Thursday heading north. That night we stopped at a motel in Great Falls, Mt. From there it was a relatively short trip onto Alberta.
We stopped in Lethbridge. They had a wonderful museum/archive there and we went in and I found some information about one of my grandfather’s younger brother who was a vice-principal there at the time of my grandmother’s death. The archivist was able to tell me where he was buried and it was at a cemetery which we had passed on our way into town so we went back and found Herbert Harvey Bruce along with his wife Jean. They had both died years before in 1935 and in 1965. I never met them but it was nice to know they are in such a lovely spot. The archivist couldn’t give me any information about Calgary but said they’d have such a place there as well. He did mention however that all the offices connected with cemeteries would be closed on weekends so that we probably wouldn’t be able to find out anything until Monday since it would be past 5 o’clock when we’d arrive in Calgary. We went on to Calgary. We could see from the map that we were very close to Union Cemetery but it was huge so we would have to wait until Monday to find out anything.
So in the meantime we decided we’d do a little sightseeing. We drove north to Olds on Saturday. From Vangie’s birth certificate it indicated that was where our mother was born. It’s about half way between Calgary and Edmonton. We of course couldn’t find out anything about the town as it was a Saturday. They had little games in play and lots of things you’d see in any US town on the weekends. It’s a rather small Midwestern looking town and their claim to fame is a wonderful Botanical and Gardens University. Their plant life was truly amazing. Since it was still summer time there was hardly anyone in sight. We did see 2 students taking some kind of inventory and they told us they’d be entering in the fall—one from Canada the other from one of the Dakotas.
On Sunday we headed west to Banff and Lake Louise. Both are really beautiful sights and we realized why these are such talked about vacation spots. That was an easy drive from Calgary, probably not more than 2 hours and the roads are wonderful.
THE LIFE AND FINAL VOYAGE OF MARGHERITA BRUCE
BROWNWOOD
After returning from visiting Banff and Lake Louise on Sunday we returned to Calgary. After another delightful dinner we retired for the night. I was eager for Monday morning to come and to investigate finding my grandmother’s gravesite. I think we went to O’Sullivan’s on Macleod Trail. It’s a sports bar with lots of TVs playing, pool tables all around and lots of noise. We had a nice dinner and then went back to our hotel and retired for the night. On Monday morning we awoke by 7 o’clock, dressed and went down for breakfast. We met Harriett and Ian and discussed our plans. I couldn’t call the cemeteries office until 8 o’clock as they didn’t open until then. I told Ian and Hat, and Larry that my main goal on this trip was to find my grandmother’s grave, Evalina Bruce. She had died in 1923 and from letters I had been given from my aunts written by my grandfather, I knew she had died in Calgary. So we went back to our room and on the dot of 8:00 a.m. I called the number, and got a recording! I told them my cell phone number and why I was calling but somehow knew I’d never hear back from them within a few days. So I told Larry, “We must go to the main cemetery! I can’t wait for them to return my call.” So off we went, some 30 minutes away. When we arrived we parked and I jumped out of the car. I was followed in by Larry, Hat & Ian. In the meantime a receptionist asked “may I help you?” I said that I was trying to find which cemetery my grandmother Evalina Bruce was buried in, that she had died in May of 1923. Within 5 minutes she returned and told us where she was. She said that Union Cemetery had fallen into disrepair back in the 40’s or 50’s, she wasn’t sure that she had a headstone, but that she was buried in such a plot, next to someone named Barrett. So we hopped into the car, and headed back to Union, which is the cemetery I had concluded from the ones Ian had sent me, where she most likely would have been buried. We knew the way because it was within walking distance from the hotel where we had been staying for the weekend. With a plot map in hand, Larry drove right to it.
We got out of the car and within 3 minutes, we found Evalina’s grave! It definitely has a beautiful grave stone, standing erect and it is marked: “Evalina Bruce”, “1865-1923,” “At Rest.” I can’t begin to tell you the emotions that came over me! Here I was, at the gravesite of my grandmother who had passed away 10 years before my birth, and whom my own dear mother Margherita never saw again after leaving her sometime around 1920! It was a very touching moment and one I still hold dear to this very moment. Larry, Hat and Ian all shared in my moments and it was like “mission accomplished!” Shortly after, we departed Calgary. Ian said “why don’t we drive back through Glacier National Park, instead of going back the way we came!” so we all agreed. On our trip north when we stopped in Lethbridge, and went to the cemetery where my great uncle, Herbert Harvey Bruce is buried, Larry’s camera had no battery and we couldn’t take any pictures! I was dismayed and said if we were going back through Glacier National Park, we’d first have to head back to Lethbridge then west again towards Glacier, so that’s exactly what we did. It was only a matter of an hour or so, so no big deal.
After leaving Lethbridge we headed east to Glacier National Park and entered from the United States side. I’m not sure exactly where we entered the U.S. from Canada but it was only about an hours drive. It was very picturesque and not very heavily traveled. I recall there were lots of TP looking facilities, most likely campgrounds. They were working on the roads in many places and it was very narrow so one can see why they do this during the summer months, rather than winter when there would be lots of snow and ice. We drove through the park and ended up staying in Whitefish, Mt. for the night. I think we stopped about 5 o’clock so it had been a full day’s drive from the time we left Calgary. The scenery was beautiful but we’d seen many more beautiful and larger glaciers in all our travels over the years—to name a few in Alaska, Chili and Greenland. We had a restful night and then got up and on the road around 8:00 a.m. Ian said, “You know we have lots of time, why don’t we drive back through Yellowstone?” We all agreed and thought that would be fun because none of us had any schedules to meet. So we headed a little south, through Kalispell where we found a Costco to get gas, then on past Flathead Lake which Ian says is the largest natural lake in the U.S. We all agreed as it seemed to take us hours to pass it. From there we drove south to Missoula where we got onto US 90 and headed east through Butte and Bozeman and stopped for the night in Livingston a small town outside Yellowstone National Park. We had called ahead and learned that all the motels in Yellowstone were full so thought we had better stay in Livingston. It was a nice Midwestern town. We took a walk and went down to the Snake River. It was so peaceful and serene. We thought these folks couldn’t really have a lot to do with the reality of what was happening in our world! It was getting close to the election and we saw lots of Obama signs in yards. We wondered where their visions of reality were. At any rate we had a nice evening and very comfortable lodgings.
The next morning we were up early, had breakfast and were on our way to Yellowstone. Neither Larry nor I had been to Yellowstone before. I believe Ian and Hat had. We entered the park and had a nice drive through it. The scenery was absolutely beautiful and stopped and took photos along the way. When we got to the geysers they had just finished erupting and it would be another hour’s wait so we decided to go on our way. Ian and Hat mentioned that we must get to the Grand Tetons before dark. Well, to our dismay it started raining and the Tetons were covered with clouds and we couldn’t see one thing. That will have to come at another time. We drove on to Jackson where we stopped for the night. We had a great evening exploring the town, seeing the sights and realized it would be only a few hours drive to the Campbell’s the next morning. We got up early and headed back to Utah and it was a beautiful scenic drive along the Snake River and back to their lovely home in Bear Lake, Utah. We spent one night with them before bidding them adieu and then headed for Park City, Utah only about 4 hours drive south from there. We had exchanged 2 weeks of our time share in Tahoe for Park City and were looking forward to a nice peaceful and restful time there. After leaving Park City we went west to Tahoe and spent another week at the Ridge Tahoe. By that time we were ready to go home to our desert heat! It had been a wonderful 4 weeks or more away but now we were ready to come home! There’s No Place like Home! And that’s the truth!
The Life and Final Voyage of Margherita – Part 4
Shortly after returning home from our vacation in 2008 I was struck with the notion that now was the time to remove our mother’s cremains from the mausoleum in Altadena and take them to Calgary to be buried with her mother Evalina whom she never saw again after she left home in 1920.
I called Vangie and Ray and told them of my strong feelings that we should do that and they both agreed. So Vangie said that she and Jim could go with us to do that. Since Ray was in such poor health he was sure he couldn’t make it. Since Union Cemetery had closed in 1923 it never dawned on me that we could do this legally. At first we thought we’d go in sometime close to dark, with a flashlight and a small shovel and accomplish our task without anyone knowing. I felt sure if we asked for permission that we’d be denied and we didn’t want that to happen. Since it was now approaching fall and the weather would soon be turning cold in Calgary we decided on summer of 2009 to accomplish our mission.
The fall and early months passed and then I knew it was time to get things started. I called Mountain View Mausoleum and spoke with a clerk in charge of having someone’s cremains removed and he told me the process to follow. He sent me an email with forms to be filled out and signed and when that was done then they were sent back and he said there were two ways it could be handled. Either I could pick them up or they could be mailed. It was only necessary to have my signature notarized, he’d accept emails from Vangie and Ray and then when we paid the necessary fees the cremains could be released. It seemed the best solution to pay them the fee, even though they’d be making considerable money on the transaction—first having sold the niche in 1953, and now they would be reselling it. We didn’t want to be bothered with trying to sell it ourselves and it would just be easier all the way around to give it back to them. So the fee we had to pay to them for having the cremains removed, a fee to the city, and postage was the easiest way to go. It took about 5 or 6 weeks for this all to come about. About April 20 when I got home in the afternoon there was a package that had arrived in the mail. I asked Larry if that was what I thought it was and he said yes. The next morning I called the representative at Mt. View and asked what could I expect to find when I opened the box? He said you realize it’s been 56 years and so will be quite tarnished. He said it would be a copper box.
I realized that we were planning a visit to San Diego over the weekend of May 1 so I called Vangie and told her that I thought it would be a good idea for us to bring the box with us and that she have Ray come over to her house, and the 5 of us could open the package together. She said that would be a splendid idea so that’s what we did. We drove to San Diego on Friday late afternoon on the 1st, then Vangie, Jim, Larry and I all went to a Kentucky Derby party on Saturday afternoon, and when we got back to the Regan’s Ray came over. We had a nice dinner and then it was time for the opening! I went and got the package, the 5 of us sat around in a semi-circle in the Regan’s living room and Ray, Vangie and I all 3 took part in opening the package. We got to a box and then a knife was required to break the tape so we could get to the inner package. We lifted the urn out and laid it on the table in front of us! We decided we’d all express our feelings to our dearest mother, Margherita and I asked Ray to go first. He shared his feelings and emotions very well, then it was Vangie’s turn and she expressed herself beautifully. I then asked Larry if he wanted to add anything and he said yes. He had been the one son-in-law who had known her the longest and he shared his thoughts. Then it was my turn and I’m afraid I broke up spilling out emotions that had been hiding inside me for some 56 years. Before we had started I had asked Jim if he’d close our little ceremony with a prayer which he did beautifully. Jim is such a talented guy, in every way, and when it comes to prayers he could have been a preacher! The entire evening was such a special occasion and we each felt good about what was happening and what we were about to do in the next few months. It was that night that Jim suggested I contact the cemetery in Calgary and ask if we couldn’t do this legally so that we could have a gravestone placed where we were planning to take Margherita. I told him I thought that was a really good idea and that I’d check into that the following week.
So sometime in early May I contacted the Cemetery Division of Calgary. I spoke with this wonderful receptionist Terry Tremblay, and told her what we’d like to do. I told her where Evalina’s grave was located in Union Cemetery and she said they’d be in touch with me. I got an email back that the grave was owned by a James W. Bruce and if I could get his permission we could do this. I emailed back saying my grandfather James W. Bruce had passed away in February 1947. She emailed back and said all the remaining heirs would have to give their consent. The remaining heirs were Vangie, Ray, cousins Duane who lives in Burlingame, Bob and Jim who live in Washington and me. I emailed all frantically telling them what was necessary. Vangie & Ray sent emails immediately, as did Duane, to Terry Tremblay, but I couldn’t get responses from Bob and Jim and was getting very anxious. After about 2 weeks I finally got an email from Terry saying that the emails she had received from the 3 would be sufficient so we could proceed from there. Whew! Was I relieved! Now that we could do this legally I told Vangie & Ray that I thought we should have some kind of gravestone made for Mom. They agreed and I contacted someone Terry had referred me to in Calgary. I learned that there can only be one gravestone per grave but that we could have a footstone. So we went from there. By this time it was probably the middle of June and when I told the stone makers the date we’d like to have it by he said he’d put a rush in to get it before we planned to have our ceremony on July 20. The cemetery department told me to contact them about a week before we wanted to have this done, but since we were planning on about a 2 week trip before having the ceremony I called them and told them when we’d like to have our ceremony on July 20. They asked what time so I said how about 10 o’clock in the morning. I also asked them if they could have the footstone installed prior to the ceremony and they said they’d put in a request but that they couldn’t guarantee it because there was such a backlog of burials! Guess in the winter months they bury no one so when it comes spring time there is a huge backlog of burials. The stone maker could get the footstone to the cemetery but he couldn’t guarantee the cemetery department could get it installed by our burial. So when we left Rancho Mirage on our trip north we weren’t exactly sure how things were going to work out. I also contacted a florist in Calgary recommended by Terry Tremblay and arranged for an arrangement to be picked up on the morning of July 20!
The photo I’m attaching is of what our rear yard looked like in Rancho Mirage when Margherita arrived from the Mausoleum in Altadena in April of 2009 – what a change from being locked inside a niche for 56 years! I think this made her very happy! At least I want to believe that to be the case. The Last Leg of the Final Journey for Margherita Bruce Brownwood Added 9-28-09 Finally the long-awaited day of July 11 arrived for us to get started on our trip to Calgary. We were planning on being gone from home for 5 weeks so it required much thought and preparation. We loaded our bags and hanging clothes in the car and a secure and covered spot for the urn in which Margherita’s cremains were in. (I had found myself talking to my mom almost daily since the urn had arrived at our home—maybe a little crazy but I felt so close and in touch with her.) So I said “here we go mom, off to places you’ve never been, to visit relatives, some of whom you were never able to meet, but it is certainly something you never expected would have happened when you left us in March 1953! I feel you’d be ecstatic to discover what lies ahead in the next few weeks.”
We left Rancho Mirage at 6:30 a.m. on Interstate-10. As we drove through the San Gabriel Valley I realized this is the area where Margherita arrived when she was no more than 16 years old, so it would have been most likely in the fall of 1920. Many changes have taken place in the beautiful valley since she arrived, and many more changes have occurred since she departed this world. The beauty of the mountains of this lovely valley still remains however, and today was one of the beautiful clear days most of us remember as kids growing up in this area! It was smogless, and because it was a Saturday the traffic was light and we sailed through. I was reminded of many happy occasions in this valley and know that Margherita had some happy times during her years spent in the area also.
Our destination on Saturday was to be at my cousin, Duane Spence’s home in Hillsborough. We drove north over the grapevine on Interstate-5. As we passed the parched and empty fields in the San Joaquin Valley we noticed all the signs along the road “Congress, please turn the water back on!” Up until this time we had had no inclining on what was taking place there. Just in the last few weeks it has been in the news that our wonderful congress has been protecting some small fish that they say is an endangered species. They have to be insane to be so afraid of the special interest lobbyists for the environmentalists that they have let our once fertile farmlands turn into wastelands. It reminded me of what it must have been like during the days of the dustbowls back in the Midwest in the 1930’s! We surely hope this situation can be reversed quickly and that these fields can return to providing food and employment to the citizens of the U.S. and probably too much of the world as well!
We took the same route to San Jose we had done so many times in years passed when we lived in San Jose and would visit Southern California. We exited Interstate-5 onto Highway 152 just west of Los Banos. As we passed San Luis Reservoir we noticed that it was very low and much of what used to be covered with water was now covered with grass, etc. It was interesting to see how things have changed between Casa de Fruta and Gilroy with a new turnoff to Hollister. However, there is still the two-lane road west of Casa de Fruta and it looks as dangerous as ever. It is a beautiful drive however, even during summertime when the hills are all covered with straw-colored growth and those beautiful big old Oak trees! It made me homesick for San Jose, even after 18 years since we moved to Rancho Mirage. We took a short time out to go by our houses in San Jose and many memories came flooding back as we passed the schools our children attended, remembered all the sporting events we’d been too and the swim meets we’d attended every Saturday during the summer months as 3 our of our 4 children had been on a swim team! Those were good old days with lots of pleasant memories.
We got back on the freeway and took Interstate-280 out of San Jose up to Hillsborough. We arrived around 4:30 at my cousin’s home. Duane is the youngest son of Margherita’s sister Jeanne. They have lived in the Northern California area all of Duane’s life so while Margherita didn’t know Duane well she surely would have remembered him. Duane was very interested in what we were doing so after dinner that night he got out some old scrapbooks and photos he had received from his mom and we had lots of fun going back over events of years gone by. We had planned on spending 2 nights with them, but on Sunday morning I mentioned to Larry that I thought it would be a very long drive from Hillsborough to Portland in 1 day and that perhaps we should plan on leaving Duane’s late in the afternoon on Sunday and getting a place for the night somewhere around Chico or further north. He agreed that that would be the best thing to do so we bid our cousins farewell around 3:30 p.m. and took off. What a traffic jam we encountered on I-280 in San Francisco and realized it would have been just as bad, if not worse on Monday morning so we were pleased we’d made the decision to leave when we did. We crossed the bay bridge and took Interstate-80 north to Interstate-505 just north of Vacaville. This took us to Interstate-5 interchange which is the highway we’d take all the way to Portland. We stopped for dinner somewhere, and then drove on to Redding where we stopped for the night. The Sacramento Valley looks much greener than the San Joaquin Valley so they must not have the water problem that is going on to the south.
We got up and on the road by 7:30 on the 13th of July. As we drove past Lake Shasta we saw beautiful jagged mountains on the west side of the road. Mt. Shasta was covered with snow! We crossed the Klamath River about half-way between Yreka and the border. The Siskiyou Mountains were rising in all their majesty to our west! What a beautiful country we live in! We crossed into Oregon at 9:08 a.m. The landscape between Ashland and Grant’s Pass is heavily forested and it’s easy to see why this area is noted for its forestry and sawmills. This was a nice easy drive that day and we called our daughter Linda, who was visiting her son David, his wife Rachael and their daughter Pearl, for 2 weeks at their home in Troutdale, OR which is a suburb of Portland. (David is attending the Western Seminary there, in his 3rd year and is also working as a Pastor at a small church they have been attending since their move to Portland 3 years ago.) Linda would have been Margherita’s first grandchild and David would have been her first great-grandchild. Unfortunately this was not to be as she passed away in March 1953 and Linda wasn’t born until September 1953. We had a reservation at a motel close to David’s and our plan was to stay two nights before heading northward. We had a great time seeing all of them. David had a class on the 14th but Rachael took us all on a grand excursion on Tuesday to Multnomah Falls which is the highest year-round running falls in the U.S. The falls flow into the mighty Columbia River. We went to a look-out at their visitor’s center and climbed the stairs to get a breath-taking view of the scenery. What a beautiful part of the country this is and I know Margherita had never been here before, nor had we. B E A U T I F U L is all I can say! On Wednesday evening we had a birthday dinner for Larry as the 15th was his birthday. We all sang and clapped and no one enjoyed the party nor the cupcakes any better than did little Pearl who was just 18 months old! What a lovely visit we had and it was nice to see our grandson David so nicely settled and happy with his lot in life and with his beautiful family. They are expecting another little girl in December so that pleases all of us. While Linda lives here in Rancho Mirage close to us, we saw more of her in those 2 days than we do in weeks at home as she is so busy as a Hospice Nurse and in many other activities.
(Before we had left home I had called David and asked him if he could come up with some sort of a prayer or message that we could read from him at the burial of Margherita. He said he’d do that and I asked him if he could get Linda to record something also. I told him we’d get some kind of CD player that we could use so that he could record his message on a CD. Some of the other nieces had written things too and had sent them via email to David so he said he’d handle that. What a good idea that was. It would bring other family members into our planned service without them being there.)
We bid them all farewell on Wednesday night. We got up and on the road by 7:30 a.m. headed for the Seattle-Bothell area. We planned to meet with my oldest cousin, Jim Horsley for lunch at his retirement home in Bothell. He is Margherita’s oldest sister Mildred’s oldest son. Jim grew up in the Seattle area, attended U of W and worked for Boeing before going to work as a ceramics engineer for Glady-McBean. At one point in his career he was transferred to the Glendale area but shortly after retirement he returned to Seattle. His wife of more than 60 years was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s about 3 years ago and he had to have her placed in a care facility which is within walking distance of his home. He shows true devotion to her and has lunch with her almost daily. He says she is happy but some days she doesn’t recognize him! How sad. We had a delightful visit and I told him of our mission later that afternoon. I had discovered through a few emails and phone calls where our grandfather’s grave was located in Chilliwack, B.C. in Canada. Jim said he had visited it many years ago but couldn’t remember anything about it. Anyway I knew they closed at 5 o’clock so we wanted to be sure to get there in time to locate it so we wouldn’t have to spend a night there.
We left Jim’s a little past noon heading north to the border. We crossed into B.C. at Sumas, WA at 3:06 p.m. The border-crossing agent asked for our passports and wanted all the details of our trip! We told him about trying to find my grandfather’s grave and also about what our mission in Calgary would be. He said that sounded like we were good people and he wished us a happy journey in our days ahead. As we drove along the Canadian side it turned into a beautiful valley of farmland and lots of trees. We could see the Cascade Mountain Range off to the south and noticed one of the mountains was completely covered with snow, to a relatively low point. Where there was no snow they were covered with pine trees and other vegetation. We arrived in the small town of Chilliwack around 4 o’clock. We went right to the cemetery (the Magellan is a great invention) and went to the office to seek help in finding my grandfather’s grave. We were given good directions and after a little looking around we found his gravestone. (I still can’t get over the fact that he was buried as Wesley Mathison Bruce! We always knew him as James W. Bruce.) This Chilliwack Cemetery is located on a hillside overlooking a lush green valley below. The cemetery if filled with trees of all kinds and the gently rolling hills add to its natural beauty. I’m not sure when I started thinking of cemeteries as beautiful. I have an idea it was a year ago when we discovered Evalina’s grave in Calgary. At any rate I felt so good to be visiting my maternal grandfather’s grave, bringing Margherita along since neither she nor I ever saw him after he left our home at the end of World War II sometime in late August of 1945. He had come to live with us in Arcadia for 1 or 2 years, I can’t remember exactly, and that was only the 2nd time we children ever saw him. He had visited us in Pasadena in the early 40’s but I barely remember that visit. I think my mother learned of her father’s passing away through a letter from someone who knew him. That was in February 1947. He had never remarried and I don’t know what ever took him to Chilliwack. It was most likely connected with a bible school as he devoted his life to the ministry and teaching. It was a most touching moment for me and it’s nice to know he’s in such a beautiful peaceful setting and I’m hoping somehow he knew that we were there. I’ll bet he’s had no other visitors other than the one from my cousin Jim in the late 40’s or early 50’s.
We had looked at the map and thought we could make it as far as Kamloops B.C. for the night. So when we left the cemetery we got back on the highway and headed east. It was a beautiful drive; the valley was surrounded by high mountains on both sides. They had many tree farms and know they must do a big business by selling their trees to nurseries all over Canada, perhaps even to the U.S. I’m not sure. As we approached Kamloops we couldn’t believe how the terrain changed. It was quite flat with barren landscape. We heard they have a large university there but aren’t quite sure what else. It was a rather large city out in the middle of nowhere! We got to our motel, checked in and then had dinner. We retired fairly early as it had been a long eventful day and we were pooped.
The next morning we got up and left Kamloops. We were actually a day ahead of our schedule but decided we’d like to spend an extra day in Calgary anyway. We headed west with more barren mountains and farmlands. We drove on the two-lane highway out of Kamloops where a river runs parallel to the roadside. It comes out of Lake Shuswap, flows west into the Straits of Georgia which is the same body of water as Puget Sound, and eventually into the Pacific Ocean. Lake Shuswap is surrounded by a beautiful country club and golf course and looks as though it’s a resort area. Salmon Arm is the heartland of the Shuswap. It’s a quaint modern town overlooking the lake--similar in beauty as Lake Tahoe but on a much smaller scale. From there we went into higher elevations with lots of forested mountains on both sides. Still it was only a two-lane windy road so a little hectic driving. Around 10:15 a.m. we crossed the Colombia River in Revelstoke. Mt. Revelstoke National Park and Albert Canyon were on the north side of the road and lots of high mountains were also on the south side. Many were snow covered. These are all in the Canadian Glacier National Park. (If this were a river we were on, rather than a highway, we’d be sure we were in a Fijord. There were many tunnels on the road as they were going through rather than over mountains. The scenery was absolutely magnificent and was so enjoyable that we didn’t mind the drive at all. Gorgeous, gorgeous country! One bit of interest is that they have Elk Crossing signs posted along the road. Something we are not accustomed to seeing. We crossed the Alberta border just east of Field and a little west of Lake Louise. As soon as we crossed the border the roads turned into beautiful four-lane divided highways and it was smooth sailing the rest of the way. That’s about the same place as where you cross the Rocky Mountain Range. We drove through Banff and it was so packed with tourists we couldn’t even find a place to park. We had been there the summer before so decided we’d just skip it this time. So on to Calgary we went. It’s really a fairly short distance to Calgary, I think about 1 ½ hours at the most. We had called ahead and asked if we could have our room one night ahead of our reservation and they said all was fine. This gave us lots of time to do some things and get organized before Vangie & Jim’s pending arrival on Saturday the 18th and also that of our son and his wife’s arrival too.
Since we’d driven so many miles to Calgary our car was filthy, so on Saturday morning I asked Larry to go to the car wash. We had seen several around the place and so he went to Bubbles Car Wash just one block south of our hotel. He came back a short time later and said he couldn’t believe the charge! I said how much and he replied $49.00! I almost fell over. This was just the run of the mill car wash with lots of workers who cleaned inside and wiped it all down outside but nothing special! Guess if one gets out of work and can find the where withal to move to Canada, the car wash is the business to get into! I thought I could finish this story today but it will take one more segment to finish the Last Leg of the Journey of Margherita!
The Final Leg of the journey of Margherita, Part 2
On Friday, July 17 we drove to Union Cemetery to see what was taking place there at grandmother Evalina’s grave. They had prepared the burial spot for Margherita, and covered it with a green cloth, but no footstone yet. I called the cemetery department and asked again if they couldn’t request that the footstone be installed prior to Monday morning’s service. They said they couldn’t make any promises but that they would put in a request. All we could do was wait and see. I visited the florist whom I had ordered an arrangement from over the phone some weeks before. When I saw what the arrangement would be like I asked that they make it a little larger for an increase in price of course. On Saturday we checked the cemetery once again and still no change. I was really getting upset as I knew they wouldn’t be working on weekends. Larry and I went to the Archives in Calgary. There we found old telephone books and year books from schools and I found out several things about my grandfather Bruce’s brother, Thomas who had been a dentist in town, and a sister, Ethel who had been a teacher. In these books it listed their addresses so we went by the houses they lived in during the years of 1923 to about 1925 or 1926. After that there was no mention of Thomas again nor of Ethel. I learned that my grandfather had taught school at Calgary High School and learned that they were in a building in Calgary for about 2 or 3 years which belonged to another school. We visited that site which is still standing but has been abandoned. I have no idea when my grandfather left Calgary but I know he taught school there during 1923 and possibly 1924. At any rate it was an interesting day of discovery and site seeing and I realized these were the same grounds my grandparents had worked and lived in so many years ago. From there we walked across the street to the Tower where we had lunch. We decided then and there this would be the restaurant we’d take the Regans and the other Larsons to dinner on Saturday night so before leaving we made the reservation for Sunday evening.
Vangie and Jim arrived sometime around noon on Sunday and our son Gregg and his wife Kathryn were due in around 4 o’clock. We drove to the airport and picked Vangie and Jim up, took them back to the hotel to get settled then went back to the airport later that afternoon to pick up Gregg and Kathryn. After everyone had a chance to check in and freshen up a little we took off for the Tower. It was built during the Olympic Games held in Calgary in 1988 and probably is similar in size to the Space Needle in Seattle. We had a delightful evening and the dinner was wonderful. The service was impeccable and the scenery in all directions was spectacular. Off to the distant west were the Rocky Mountains and as far north, east and south that we could see were the plains. It was a beautiful clear evening.
Monday morning arrived and the long anticipated moment was at hand. We all met for breakfast in the hotel’s lounge where they served a modest continental type breakfast. After going back to our rooms we met in the parking lot around 9:40 a.m., we went to the florist’s to pick up the flowers and then headed for Union Cemetery. (My stomach was churning as I was wondering what we’d find when we got there!) To all our surprise they had installed the footstone on the grave and had placed a podium by the burial spot for us to use! All was well.
We started our service with my reading the poem “A Memory is a Treasure”, which was the forward to this story. I followed that by reading the following poem Margherita had written in April1937 dedicated to her mother, Evalina. It is as follows:
“Mother, O, the depth of the meaning implied: Mother, whose influence has never died. Why, I can remember, not so long ago As I played at Mother’s knee, She sang and smiled at me; But now she’s gone.
Oh, that I could look upon her face; But she is in another place. On that blessed and happy shore Some day we’ll meet to part no more.
‘Till then mid the din and strife, I’ll be content to reflect upon her beautiful life; And try myself to be as good a Mother and wife. So in memory of her whose name was spoken, Please accept this little token From a Motherless girl, whose heart is broken; But finds healing in doing for another What she’d like to do for her own dear Mother.
Larry read Ray’s message and recollections. Next we played the recording from David, which was a message written from Mary Margherita Burt Godwin, Vangie’s youngest daughter, then David’s message about Margherita which was a beautifully interpreted message of how he knew Margherita to have been through her poetry. That was very special. Then Vangie proceeded to read a message her daughter Laurie had written, even though she wasn’t sure she could get through it, (she did beautifully I might add), then Gregg read a poem our daughter Jana had written about Margherita. These were all very touching and meaningful. Vangie then spoke from her heart about what her mother had meant to her and how she’s missed her all these years. Larry then spoke about how he knew Margherita and how she had impacted his life. Then it was my turn. The tears burst forth and I spoke from my heart how the longing for my mother has never waned and how much I’ve missed her all these years. The fact that she never knew even one grandchild—now there are 17! But to this day Ray, Vangie and I have always felt her presence and know she has been our guardian angel, watching over her flock! She has had a very busy assignment, so while we’ve all missed her dreadfully we realize she’s been with each of us in some way. Following my message we played a piece that our daughter Linda, Margherita’s oldest granddaughter had picked as her contribution to the ceremony. It was Perry Como’s rendition of “In the Garden!” When it began Vangie and I both burst forth in tears as we remembered it as one of our mother’s favorites and we could both recall her sitting at her piano playing and singing that song! Linda of course knew nothing of this so it was so ironic that she would have chosen that as her message to the grandmother she never knew! Somehow we all know that Margherita has finally come home to be with her mother Evalina, and that they are happy to be reunited for all eternity some 89 years later! It was one of the most touching and meaningful moments of my life and one I know will never be surpassed. Vangie and I are so happy knowing that Margherita is there with Evalina and that she is in a much better place than Mountain View Mausoleum in Altadena where she had been since 1953. I’ll do one more segment to this story telling the history of Union Cemetery in Calgary. It is truly a beautiful place and has lots of history.
9-22-08 The great travel piece was sent to Dick Keck and forwarded on to me. This is from Rocky, class of '38, one of Donna's buddies. Can you post this on the Travel page?? Was Rocky's question to Dick, he sent it on to me and here it is, I did this with about 2 hours sleep so hope I got it somewhat correct. Gary
Flying to Ankorage with a day to spare before I joined a group of 16 on a Joe Van Os photo tour , i took a shuttle to the Zoo to get my first images of the BIG Brown Bears , Ursa Arctos Horriblis
Flying west in a Saab prop jet for a couple hours we landed in the huge Kamai National Park (5 times bigger than Yellowstone) at Big Salmon on the Alaska Penninsula, which is the start of the Aleutian Island chain, and transferred to a small float plane for our final half hour to Brooks Lodge. The wilderness enroute had boocoo lakes and swamps and rare habitations and roads
Landing at brooks lodge was conditioned on no bears on the beach since the bears own the park and suffer the homo sapiens to stay out of their way.
First thing ashore was in the park headquarters where the signs and the lecture emphasized the point and made sure we all knew that 50 yards was as close as we should get to a bear on the trail or road or beach. This is what a sleeping bear on the beach looks like at 50 yard with a 450 mm lens .
Soon after, standing in front of the dinning hall, this bear walked by on the beach at about 20 yards
The beach gravel was filled with tracks
Our accommodations were in these cabins and often a bear walked through where the red coated man is walking
These cabins face a view of one arm of the shallow lake with marsh edges and islands where often we could see 10 to 15 bears fishing or playing and several fishermen out in waders.
About 300 yards from the dining hall along a broad path, inland from the beach about 50 yard was a bridge across a narrows and at the far end the first of three safe viewing platforms monitored by rangers at it land point and on the platform to determine safe crossing times since the were always bears in view .
This one on the left
and this mother and her yearling on the right just below the platform
From this platform it was a 1.6 mile walk along the lake, the through woods to the Brooks river with one platform at the falls and one 200 yards downstream in the riffles. The river and the lakes were full of Sockeye Salmon and all the bears were eating most of the time.
At the Falls were usually two or three bears with others just downstream
Some were in the fish ladder right under the platform
and so the end
ps many of the groups at the lodge were there for the fishing A great trip and as usual great to be home Rocky Rockwood - MAD '38 Rocky Rockwood
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